The Provenance Checklist
The five things to verify before buying a wreck coin — from anyone, including us.
Before you buy a wreck coin, verify five things: the named salvage source, a certificate or tag that identifies this coin specifically, third-party certification you can look up, agreement between the coin's date and mint and the wreck's cargo window, and a written attribution on the invoice. If any one of the five is missing, buy the coin as an undocumented colonial coin and pay accordingly.
1 — Who recovered it, and did they have the right to?
Every legitimate wreck coin traces to a specific salvage operation working a specific site under a specific legal arrangement. Ask for the salvor's name and the site. Then check that the salvor actually worked that wreck: the list of legally salvaged and legally sold sites is short and public.
2 — Does the paperwork identify this coin?
- A salvor certificate naming the wreck and, ideally, carrying a tag, flip or lot number.
- A number that appears on one coin, not on a batch — duplicated numbers are a known abuse.
- Photographs in the paperwork that match the coin in hand, including its specific damage.
3 — Is there certification you can verify yourself?
Look the certificate number up on the grader's own site rather than trusting a photo of a label. Confirm the wreck name appears on the holder if the wreck is part of the price.
4 — Do the coin and the wreck agree?
Read the coin first: mint, assayer, date bracket. Then test it against the wreck. A coin dated after the loss ends the discussion, and a mint that did not feed that fleet requires an explanation.
5 — Will the seller put it in writing?
A dealer who believes the attribution will state it on the invoice. That is the difference between a claim and a warranty, and it costs an honest seller nothing.
Every Dark Tide Relics coin ships with its attribution stated in writing and, where a dossier exists, a permanent verification record you can check independently.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the minimum documentation a wreck coin should have? A named salvage source, paperwork identifying that specific coin, and a written attribution on the invoice. Third-party certification naming the wreck is stronger still.
- What if a coin has no provenance at all? Buy it as an undocumented Spanish colonial coin and pay undocumented prices. The coin can still be genuine and worth owning; what is missing is the multiplier a wreck name carries.
Sources
- Dark Tide Relics, Report No. 13 — The Attribution Codex (seven-step attribution method)
- NGC — Shipwreck coin certification and “Genuine / Shipwreck Effect” designations — https://www.ngccoin.com
- Daniel Frank Sedwick, LLC — Auction archives and counterfeit-cob reference material — https://www.sedwickcoins.com