The Provenance Checklist

The five things to verify before buying a wreck coin — from anyone, including us.

Before you buy a wreck coin, verify five things: the named salvage source, a certificate or tag that identifies this coin specifically, third-party certification you can look up, agreement between the coin's date and mint and the wreck's cargo window, and a written attribution on the invoice. If any one of the five is missing, buy the coin as an undocumented colonial coin and pay accordingly.

1 — Who recovered it, and did they have the right to?

Every legitimate wreck coin traces to a specific salvage operation working a specific site under a specific legal arrangement. Ask for the salvor's name and the site. Then check that the salvor actually worked that wreck: the list of legally salvaged and legally sold sites is short and public.

2 — Does the paperwork identify this coin?

3 — Is there certification you can verify yourself?

Look the certificate number up on the grader's own site rather than trusting a photo of a label. Confirm the wreck name appears on the holder if the wreck is part of the price.

4 — Do the coin and the wreck agree?

Read the coin first: mint, assayer, date bracket. Then test it against the wreck. A coin dated after the loss ends the discussion, and a mint that did not feed that fleet requires an explanation.

5 — Will the seller put it in writing?

A dealer who believes the attribution will state it on the invoice. That is the difference between a claim and a warranty, and it costs an honest seller nothing.

Every Dark Tide Relics coin ships with its attribution stated in writing and, where a dossier exists, a permanent verification record you can check independently.

Frequently asked questions

Sources